Azores Part Two: Around Angra do Heroismo

So you've read about the amazing garden in Angra do Heroismo ... but what else is there of interest around town?

Angra is on the coast, like most of the populated areas of the island of Terceira, and our daily habit included walking past the statue of Vasco da Gama to see the harbor and the nearby water.

On our first day walking along the water, we turned back and saw this bright blue building, the Igreja da Misericordia (Church of Mercy).  The site was the location of the island's first hospital, established in 1492.  This church was built in the 18th century, and approximately 100 years later, the hospital was moved to a nearby convent.

We climbed the steep stairs to the balcony, where we saw this interesting building next door.  According to the interesting lady who greeted us inside the church, the building is completely empty: only the outside is kept up because it is in the historic district.

Another church in Angra is the Ingreja do Santissimo Salvador da Se (Church of the Holy Savior of the Cathedral), which was begun in 1570.  Outside is a statue of Pope John Paul II, commemorating his May 1991 visit to the island.

The church is best known for its 16th century paintings depicting the life of Christ and the exquisite silver antependium made by metalworkers from Terceira, but I liked it best for the chevron steeples!

Most of the Catholic churches on the island have nearby Imperios, or shadow churches, devoted to the Holy Spirit. They are brightly colored, topped with an imperial crown, and feature an altar inside. Each Imperio is opened once a year for a celebration.  This one is right in the town of Angra (but I was unsure which church it was related to).

Unlike the bold exteriors of many of the churches and Imperios, the Convent de Sao Goncalo is not impressive upon approach.  Getting inside is something of a challenge, as guests have to be buzzed into an entry room where they wait for a tour guide.  

   

The nun who served as my tour guide spoke no English, and I spoke no Portugese, but somehow we communicated well enough.

I was the only person on my tour.  The nun brought me through locked doors to the chapel, where she had to turn the lights on.  But WOW!  I walked in and literally gasped in awe: it was truly that impressive.  Although no photos were allowed inside, you may find one picture and a lot more information here.

In the center of town, the center of the UNESCO World Heritage site and across the street from our hotel, was the town square, where we rang in 2017. And on that square is the Town Hall, which houses the Supreme Court of the Azores.

 

 

Every day, we explored a little more of the town. One day near the end of our trip, we walked to the opposite end of town, where we found (more!) bakeries - there were several delicious ones near our hotel! - and yet another stunning view.

 

 

In addition to the fantastic views, the Supreme Court of the Azores, the churches, the Imperios, the public garden, and so much else, Angra houses a great museum featuring the history of the Azores. Tune in to Part Three to learn more about the museum!

Azores Part One: Jardim Duque da Terceira

So we picked the Azores on a whim.

It had been in the back of my mind as a "one day" destination, but I was stuck inside when a great deal came up: $549 for air from Boston, six nights lodging in a UNESCO World Heritage City, transfers to and from the airport, and hotel breakfast daily.  Electronic communications commenced, and 15 minutes later, four of us were booked.

Our island was about 9 miles by 15 miles.

Finally, the day arrived, and we were on our way to Terceira, one of nine islands that makes up the autonomous region of Portugal known as the Azores.  We landed in Praia da Vitoria and were quickly transferred to Angra do Heroismo, our home for the next six nights.

We stayed at the Azoris Angra Garden Hotel, which is across a narrow street from the main town square, on which the Town Hall sits.  The Town Hall not only houses the city's administrative offices, but also the Supreme Court of the Azores.

Angra do Heroismo Town Hall

Azores Supreme Court

We soon checked in and headed to our room, where we were pleased to see a balcony with a view of the Angra public garden, the Jardim Duque da Terceira.

The view from our balcony.

I knew that our hotel was next to the garden, but I had no idea what an integral part of our trip that garden would become.  We napped to the babbling water of the nearby fountain and awoke to the chirping and singing of the garden's many birds.

Walking in the garden was quite pleasing, as well.  The formal garden, with its lovely formal design, was filled with the whimsy of bushes topiaried into the shapes of boats and tea kettles.

Topiary

The sidewalks include all kinds of interesting art, from birds to cats to frogs to a portrait of A. Almeida Garrett, which is located in front of his memorial.

Bird in cobblestone sidewalk

Cat in cobblestone sidewalk

Portrait with memorial

The garden houses plants from around the world, all of which thrive in the mild climate of the Azores.

And perhaps most impressive of all were the roses in every color.

So we booked this trip on a whim, knowing very little about what where we were staying, but we ended up in a perfect location.

More on what to see and do in town coming soon ...

Butchart the Beautiful

As I'm starting to think about where I might visit in 2017, I realize that I never wrote about summer 2014.  Oops!

... and that's a really big "oops" because we visited an incredible garden in Victoria, British Columbia: Butchart Gardens.

While staying in Port Angeles, WA, we took the ferry across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  I love being on a boat -- pretty much any boat -- and the weather on the way to Canada was perfect, so the trip across the water was pretty much bliss for me!

Upon arrival, we explored the harbor area, had a delicious lunch at Sam's Deli (Delish!!), and then walked to Craigdarroch Castle.

I was somewhat disappointed with the walk: although the brochures promised cute, unique shops, the shopping district was instead filled with the same old stores and the same old items found anywhere.

Craigdarroch Castle was pretty cool, though.  We could see a garden filled with lavender as we approached, and the bees were super-busy!

 

Inside, the castle -- really a house -- is a four-story structure with some interesting things, like this ...

After leaving, as we headed back to the harbor area, we detoured through the Rockland Woodland Garden.  This garden, a narrow strip along a little street, is filled with interesting flowers!

Upon arrival at the harbor, we had to decide: go back to Port Angeles ... or something else.  We decided on something else, and that something was Butchart Gardens.  So we booked tickets on the tour bus and headed inland.

I wasn't expecting much.  I didn't know what to expect, but not much.  And boy, was I surprised and impressed by what I saw!  We walked into a life-sized chess game, and then moved onto the gardens.

 The Sunken Garden, the Japanese Garden, and Butchart Cove ... I couldn't pick a favorite.

But, as always, it was the roses that stole my heart!   

If I ever make it back to Victoria, I won't make the mistake of wondering what to do with my time. No, I'm sure of it: Butchart Gardens will be at the top of my "must visit" list!